Just happened to fall on a seam in the substrate? They, and others are relying on a tested, proven 2" overlap seam. I don't blame you for looking for a better price. I am getting ready to apply thinset and mesh tape to all the seams. Silicone on the “plaster guard”…..enough? Really. First a little about silicone. Favored the Bostic. Do you leave it sticking out from below the backerboard and over the edge of the drywall? Either the technique above or you can use schluter valve seals on them (just google it). Yep, I was present when that box was constructed. Dunno Steve, I have used silicone and i know it sticks to it. (Picture 3). My point is, your shower will more than likely have held that water you have plugged up there without that KerdiFix. The opening is 5″×8″, and at the base of the shower wall. While I normally always advocate to follow manufacturers recommendations I have always removed plaster guards from every valve I’ve done a shower in. Again, thank you so much. If so, what do you do with the plastic moisture barrier? The temperature needs to be between 40°F and 100°F, and there needs to be between 5% and 95% humidity for silicone … The only two things I can think of offhand. I bought the Kerdi 1/8" x 1/8" sq notch trowel the next day. The material does not yellow over time and has high resistance to oxygen, ozone and UV light. That stuff is indestructible! Thanks for your time. One of the problems with waterproofing a shower is the fact that you NEED to have holes in it. BUY NOW Rule #4. I do not have a picture of that. Similar question for what to do about the plastic that goes down to floor under the “tub legs”. Henry ® 880 Tropi-Cool ® Stop Leak ® 100% Silicone Spray Sealer is a premium, easy-to-use, 100% silicone aerosol leak sealer, formulated to provide a permanent leak-proof seal on a variety of surfaces. Regarding my shower pan liner, is it okay to tack it right on the foil faced foam sheathing (into the studs of course), or should I take all that down and just leave the studs and fluffy insulation? If it’s at the base of the wall water will get to it. My shower project is coming along (slowly but surely), but I have a question regarding one of my walls. 3) What’s the mesh tape about in the pic? It seems that your method above is perfect for this type of installation, but before I go hacking this together, I just want to confirm that this is the correct course of action. Now all you need to do is shoot a large bead of silicone all the way around the perimeter of the hole. Water is for sissies. Hello. Everything in this bathroom (and this house) has been do-or-die to the tune of fractions of an inch. when you sheetrock or cement board a tub surround, do you extend the sheetrock or cement board over the tub lip and onto the top ledge or do you just end your sheetrock or cement board right above the tub lip and then let the tile extend onto the tub ledge? Silicone that space, then paint your redgard down over it all the way to the flange. Adding a second drain and tying it into the existing membrane would require at least partially removing floor tile, doing all that, then replacing deck mud and floor tile. Thanks for your help. So my question is similar to Steve’s above, but with one caveat. Thanks John, everyone.....In a shower, primary concern to me is sealing around the shower valve, in case any water gets past the escutcheon. Keep silicone patches on your skin from 1-8 hours. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us. At the time they didn't have KerdiFix out. Paint the redgard right up to the holes. Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. Something more or less obvious? OK, maybe you need more info. Food grade silicone is a non-toxic type of silicone that doesn’t contain any chemical fillers or byproducts, making it safe for use with food. Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile. Yes. Whether you have utilized a topical waterproofing like Hydroban or Redgard (liquid) or Kerdi (sheet), or you’re using the traditional method with a membrane behind your substrate, the answer is silicone. As an example, the popular silicone sold in hardware stores is GE012A (aka GE 1) which contains Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (aka D4). Thinset bonds to urethane not silicone. For those areas thin set or Kerdi-fix are recommended. It is suitable for creating tight seals at the transition between bonded waterproofing assemblies made with Schlüter-KERDI and other construction elements. I need to leave this clean out accessible, but how do I keep water from running down the shower wall tile and infiltrating this clean out door. Should I attempt some sort of additional or extended silicone dam from the back? They will not suggest its use for primary seaming or for areas that might be constantly wet. I’m building a tile shower with Kerdi membrane, and the Schulter shower base kit (I read your manual on waterproofing with Kerdi – it’s excellent!). But, perhaps when everything is put together, that isn’t really a concern? Mike - Thanks for the response. 2. What do you think about Kirdifix? I’ve decided to have my privacy violated and start putting things on Facebook. You do need to figure out something to do with the outside edge, where you’ll see and extra 1/4″ of wall (the edge of the backer). Roger, :D. Getting raggdy from the condensate of the ice cubes when we fill it with bottle water and ice, but hate to throw it out. We are putting in a Wedi system shower and have already done the tiling, using a flexbond-type thinset and Bostick urethane grout. 2) I could abate some of this by siliconing the OD of the escutcheon instead of relying on its (smaller OD) rubber seal. Silicone caulk is expensive but worth the cost due to its flexibility and long life. good luck getting that ostrich saddle off your hands…. If your hole spans two or more tiles then the technique is the same, but you should have two beers Pepsis. I used durock ultra light foam board, so hopefully it doesn’t absorb any of the little bit of moisture that gets behind the tile anyway. (Picture 1). The problem with holes in a waterproof shower is that they make it not so waterproof. Do those faucet and shower head holes get thinset or tape? I don’t know why they would want you to leave it in there unless it’s part of the seal for their trim. I can't imagine that it would be toolable and it would likely just be a … Secondly, thanks for all of the information. You can bond the rubber seal to the kerdi with kerdi-fix. ... Used it to cover the Schluter screws on the Kerdi board with Kerdi band per instructions. GE 1 or GE012A has D4 at 1-5% by weight. You still need waterproofing over the backer above the fiberglass, but nothing is needed over where the fiberglass is. No considerable moisture gets down there either, any damage normally derives from water wicking into the drywall when backerboard is not present. Depending on these, we can find the difference between silicone and rubber. Acrylic latex … Yes, you can. They are polymeric materials that exhibit the viscoelastic behaviour, which we generally call as elasticity. The plaster guard is removed before the trim pieces are put on. There really is no easy solution to it. OK, but what about the silicone dam behind the tile? This caulk is 100% silicone and Incredibly strong for creating crack-proof permanent sealing around the shower and … Pure Silicone Caulk . I stick the Kerdi to the tub lip with modified thin set -- Versa Bond. You gotta like my page. Click Above to have professional TileTips sent directly to your inbox. Should I silicone the opening you mentioned on the cement board section? I could tie them together below the floor….BUT….I have no clue how to make sure I have a seal around my existing membrane so as to not have problems with water doing what it does so well and go where I don’t want it to go. Your blog is sent from bathroom remodel heaven, if such a place exists . 100% silicone will perform better than “extended”. 4. Floor is concrete. I don't recall any metion of sillycone or KerdiFix. Can you just silicone the part where the cement board meets the drywall Instead of taping? Have a beer Pepsi to congratulate yourself for such a fine looking circle! I just tiled a floor this weekend based your great tips. should i take it back, and buy 100% silicone? Then I will apply redguard to it? From the #1 Silicone Brand, Tub and Tile Silicone 1 sealant is a 100% silicone and 100% waterproof sealant ideal for areas susceptible to moisture such as There is a little foam thing inside my escutcheons, but I have little faith in it. I live in michigan where the winters are cold if that helps with the answer. That thing doesnt stick. This silicone works great,used to fix a hole in metal roof around pipe,just layered it to fix a 1.25 inch gap .I would buy again,and will here soon Read more What should I do? As a result, silicone caulk can handle movements in the joints, the areas where the walls meet. I have one question though which I’m unclear about. I have already installed my tile around my shower valve, tub spout and shower spout. I just want it to last a long time. Performance Of 100% RTV vs. Extended. 21 CFR 177.2600. You can click on any of these photos to view a full-size version. So the thought is to simply add a second drain where the first one SHOULD have been in the first place. Do I need to prepare that tile with anything? I’ll have to get you a six pack for this probably…two beers isn’t enough. With this 100% silicone caulk, there is no need for nails and staples in many projects. I assume thinset and screws to fasten? I imagine water running down the front of my tile and getting behind my escutcheons then making its way through the 2 inch hole through my Kerdi and backer board and into the inside of my stud wall. 3) I have access panels on the back side of the wall. If the instructions for the product say to use 100% silicone then that is the way to proceed. You have no idea the headache you just solved. However, once you get those installed the only way water can get into them is to fly sideways – it doesn’t do that. There are only 2 places I worry about with Kerdi and sheetrock. When the water gets nasty, every few months, we pump it out with a tile saw pump. The next step is to embed KERDI-BAND into the KERDI-Fix to make the tub to KERDI-BOARD transition 100% waterproof. You may have answered this elsewhere, but I was reading your traditional shower waterproofing guide and had a quick question. I know I can use silicone around the opening behind the tile so water behind the tile can wick around it, but how do I prevent water from getting behind the substrate? Okay, don’t slam it up there, place it up there carefully and press firmly to ensure full contact. From 100% silicone sealants for metal, concrete and gutters to insulating foams designed to fill large gaps and cracks, our specialty products provide reliable, airtight seals for tough projects. To seal a PVC pipe with silicon you must first obtain one or more tubes of silicone, then prepare the PVC pipe. Hey all, With Kerdi-fix at $20 a tube, I want to use something more economical but just as effective. :eek: I can assure you I don't keep ice in it unless I have to :wave:, but it is always half full of water. Regarding a shower with Hardi substrate and Kerdi waterproofing—– Five years later, we managed to finally get to tub stage. The lowest portion of the floor is about 6″ further in than the drain, so in order for all the water to be out of the shower at the end of the day, one has to squeegee it toward the drain. It will just back up and eventually (over the years) saturate the substrate! It's been full of water since 2001? If I place the kerdi membrane up to that, and then it is removed when the trim is added, what prevents moisture from getting through that hole? Nvm that’s a yes… this is an awesome thread. You need to use 100% silicone, none of that acrylic silicone or any of that stuff that sounds fancy (but doesn’t work long-term). :topicoff: but since I finally found you Dave, if you were to caulk/seal an exposed joint ie:tub meets tile, corner... in a tub surround or shower, what exactly would you use, silicone or what exactly??????????? Now once you get your hole cut out in your tile flip it over so you’re staring at the back of it. While it may cling to the side of the escutcheon and be channeled sideways for a bit, as soon as it hits any type of barrier it will begin to run down again. Leaky caulk is not to be ignored! It will not be technically waterproof until you install the silicone and tile. Nice looking job though Steve. So the contractor came and layed cement and did the flow or slope for drain and plumber has done what he needed to do so today they came back and did the fiberglass coating over the concrete floor and frame. The kerdi mixing valve seal is 4-1/2″ and the Hansgrohe ibox requires a 5″ hole. For the gaps between backerboard and drywall, do you also tape and mud those? We are using tile for walls and mosaic for shower floor and I want to know if any additional waterproofing materials other than backer board need to be applied before or after the backer board and was told not to put any holes in fiberglass coating so is there is need to do that that at all for any reason? They just flat out don't leak. You can also get a ‘drain extender’, which raises the drain, then pack another mud deck over the existing tile, correctly sloped, and tile it. And youmight not be able to use the enclosure again for a w… That and seeing the condensate on the plastic with our open wall cavities in the training areas when using liquids is what has made me a strong believer in sheet products and using felt. The simple truth is that some projects just don't need extremely strong adhesives, and diluting the silicone is a good way to make your sealant cheaper for these kinds of projects. Great site my man. Also, am I supposed to thinset and tape the space between the cement board and lip of the tub? Crafters and artists may find that this clear silicone sealant is a great choice for sculpting and picture frame assembly. The alcohol evaporates quickly and that’s one advantage of using denatured alcohol to spray the silicone vs something like soapy water or Windex, which both work for this also. (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery! Well, in an effort to save me from losing more space in my already tiny “elf closet”, our carpenter framed our tub wall that holds our plumbing with a 2×4, instead of a 2×6, which was great, because we could leave the stupid little closet alone. My plumber and tile guy say not to worry—they’ll just make the tile hole smaller than the Hardi hole, so the escutcheon will seal against the tile. Just do the dam, it can be larger than the cover. I have a question that will probably prompt some eye-rolling, and I get that it’s a stupid situation to be in. It never hurts, though. I am wondering what I should do before I even get to the tiling part. Do you trim it and where does the edge go relative to the flooring – presumably not below (in this case the drywall was already removed for the legs, so we put backerboard there.). This ensures the fleece will be 100% covered in thin-set. (Please DO NOT email me with the punchline to that joke!). Schlüter-KERDI-FIX is an elastic installation adhesive made of an MS polymer. Dave has been watering it ever since. A quick and easy way to seal PVC is with silicone. Moen states in their instructions to keep the plaster ground in place during installation of the trim and that it should sit flush with the finished tile. Hi Roger, Whether you have utilized a topical waterproofing like Hydroban or Redgard (liquid) or Kerdi (sheet), or you’re using the traditional method with a membrane behind your substrate, the answer is silicone. I did the caulking on my house 15 years ago including the cedar siding joints, still not a tear in it. Okay, so you have the back side of the tile sealed with silicon so the water runs down the back side, around the hole, and in to the tub. Dave or John, what size is the box? Schluter has said in past that 100 percent silicone is an acceptable substitute for Kerdi Fix, though, and I was quite surprised at just how well that did in my comparison testing. Just install the new mud deck and tile away. 4) I have bought larger OD escutcheons where available, but some not available. 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